Polo was invented in Central Asia — possibly Persia, possibly the steppes north of the Hindu Kush — and nowhere does it feel more native than at Shandur Pass. At 3,700 m, on a flat plateau between the Ghizer Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan and the Chitral Valley in KPK, teams from Chitral and Gilgit have contested an annual polo match for at least two centuries. Today it's the centrepiece of a three-day festival that draws thousands of visitors to one of Pakistan's most remote and beautiful landscapes.
The Pass
Shandur Pass (3,700 m) sits on the watershed between the Ghizer River (flowing east to the Gilgit River) and the Laspur River (flowing west to Chitral). The plateau at the top is flat, broad, and implausibly green for its altitude — a product of the snowmelt that runs through it all summer. Lakes dot the plateau. The peaks above are part of the Hindu Kush, rounded and snow-capped rather than the jagged granite towers of the Karakoram, and the scale is vast and quiet.
Most visitors approach from Gilgit via the Ghizer Valley (4–5 hrs by jeep from Gilgit) or from Chitral via the Laspur Valley (3–4 hrs). Both routes are rough and spectacular.
The Festival
The Shandur Polo Festival takes place annually in the first week of July — usually July 5–7, confirmed yearly by the Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan governments. The event features:
- The main polo match: Chitral vs Gilgit, free-style (without many of the rules of international polo), fast, physical, and played with extraordinary skill. The horses are bred locally in both valleys.
- Cultural performances: Music, dance, and crafts from both Chitrali and Gilgiti traditions, including Khowar and Shina folk music and the Chitrali sitar.
- Camping at the polo ground: Thousands of spectators camp at the pass for the duration. It's basic (pit latrines, food stalls, no electricity) but the atmosphere — stars above at 3,700 m, camp fires, the sound of horses — is extraordinary.
Getting There
From Gilgit:
- Drive the KKH south to Gupis junction (~3 hrs)
- Turn west into Ghizer Valley toward Phander and Teru
- Continue to Shandur via the jeep track (~2 hrs from Teru)
Total: 5–6 hrs from Gilgit. The Ghizer Valley is beautiful and worth a stop — Phander Lake is a turquoise gem.
From Chitral:
- Drive east from Chitral town via Mastuj (~3 hrs)
- Turn north into Laspur Valley
- Climb to Shandur (~1.5 hrs from Laspur)
Total: 4–5 hrs from Chitral. This route is higher and more dramatic in the final approach.
Accommodation
During the festival, accommodation at the pass is entirely camping. Bring your own tent and sleeping gear (temperatures drop below 5°C at night in July at 3,700 m). Some food and tea stalls operate at the polo ground. Water is from the plateau streams — carry a filter.
In Teru (on the Gilgit approach) and Mastuj and Laspur (on the Chitral approach), guesthouses offer basic accommodation for those who prefer a roof.
Beyond the Festival
Shandur is worth visiting outside festival dates. The plateau is accessible June–September and the walk across it — from the eastern edge to the polo ground to the western descent — takes 3–4 hours and passes through some of the most peaceful high-altitude scenery in Pakistan. Fishing in the plateau lakes is permitted (brown trout). The pass also marks the boundary between GB and KPK, so a walk across it technically takes you between two administrative regions.
Practical Notes
- Accommodation at the festival is first-come; arrive the day before to get a good camp spot
- Carry cash — no ATMs anywhere near Shandur
- The jeep track from Gilgit deteriorates in heavy rain; check conditions before departure in early July when rainfall is possible
- No permits required
- Mobile coverage: Zong on the Gilgit approach as far as Teru; nothing at the pass
The Shandur Polo Festival is the kind of event that only exists because of geography. You couldn't stage it anywhere else. The altitude, the remoteness, the traditions — they make each other. Remove any one and it becomes something ordinary.